The two most tasteless causes for Rv battery failure are undercharging and overcharging.
Undercharging is a consequent of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to dehydrate into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the whole one cause of battery failure. The second foremost cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let's look at how to properly store your Rv batteries.
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Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries include sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries yield when they're charging is very explosive. When you work nearby batteries you need to wear goggles and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.
Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.
When you put the Rv in long term storehouse it's a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storehouse too. This is quite straightforward to do. The first thing we want to do is visually contemplate the batteries for any safe bet damage. Any fluid on or nearby the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be substituted immediately. Whenever you remove any battery all the time remember to remove the negative final or cable first, and then the safe bet cable.
Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the safe bet cable first and then the negative cable.
Clean the batteries with a 50/50 blend of baking soda and water if necessary, i.e. Use one pound of baking soda to one gallon of water. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required is at the top of the plates. If it's below the plates add adequate distilled water to cover the plates before you fee the battery.
Test the battery state of fee with a voltmeter or hydrometer and fee any batteries that are at or below 80%. An 80% fee is roughly 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6 volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of fee drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.
Caution: Batteries should only be expensed in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.
A discharged or partially expensed battery will freeze much faster than a expensed battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storehouse will loose a ration of current through internal leakage. It's not uncommon for a battery to dismissal up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural dismissal process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the
stored battery state of fee every month and fee batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.
Completely fee the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum carrying out you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. An equalizing fee is an increase in charging voltage similar to a bulk fee to convert any crystallized lead sulfate back into its primary components.
If you decide to leave the batteries in the Rv while it is in storehouse remember to check the state of fee monthly and fee any batteries at or below an 80% charge. Some Rv converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to assert a float fee on the battery without removing the batteries from the Rv. Remember, for the converter charger to work the Rv will need to be plugged in to electricity.
For more information on Rv batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance Dvd.
Happy Camping,
Mark Polk
Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of Rv education 101
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